Saturday, January 25, 2014

The Village People

Lazy man gets no bread

Despite the cold and snow of Indiana, being back in the States is a refreshing breath of fresh air.  Literally.  Luxuries like indoor heating, high speed Internet, and cheese are a high comfort in addition to the things like clear skylines and phonetic alphabets.  The past few weeks in Wuhan were busier than a beehive in spring.  Hopefully the American vacation will renew my energy and send me back to China ready to tackle the last few months.

Prior to the eight-day teacher workweek I traveled with the C.E.C.P. group to several villages around south Hubei province.  Each village had unique structures dating from the period of the Qing dynasty.  The first places we passed had covered bridges.  The next village was a labyrinth of an old farm palace where possibly a hundred people now live.  The whole of the weekend’s villages offered different sites:  a 50 meter long dragon boat, family temples complete with ancestral remains in decorative coffins, and a variety of people that both love and disagree with the party’s distribution of wealth. 

Following the cultural revolution all land was redistributed and the ancient structures were taken from families that had lived there for hundreds of years.  The families that live there are very poor and survival is their greatest concern.  As a result, the beautiful structures are in disarray and maintenance is beyond concern.  Many people that earn money working in the city come back to the village and construct modern looking fronts for the buildings.  These villages are disappearing as China becomes a richer country.  The C.E.C.P. keeps records of these places on their website:  http://www.icecp.org/  You can also see many photos of me in the pictures from the end of the year gala.  Hopefully photos from this weekend’s trip will be up soon.

Saturday night one of our group members found a very decent hotel for us to stay at 85 RMB/room.  Between two people the total is around $6/person.  Each room had clean beds, heaters, towels, separate bathrooms, and Western style toilets.  It sounds like the norm for any hotel in the states, but a typical Chinese hotel at this price would offer none of the before-mentioned items.  Sometimes sleeping on a park bench offers greater luxury than a cheap hotel in China.

The following day was sunny, warm, and full of more villages.  The greatest surprise was an unassuming village with an AMAZING temple and a man who specializes in creating traditional Chinese coffins.  Chinese villagers try to make their own coffins if they live to a certain age in preparation for the inevitable.  This is a part of life, which is not easily planned.  In this situation there are specialists who make ancient style coffins for others.  The man went about his work creating decorative clay handles while we spent a few hours searching the temple, staging our own Peking opera on their ancient stage, and photographing both the beautiful ancient details and the cultural revolution marks left in sloppy red paint.  Most people in villages flock in masse to see foreigners, but this man continued working as if we were a passing wind. 

The leader of our group shared with this village two boxes of clothes and children’s toys that another transient member of C.E.C.P. donated.  At first many people said it was not necessary, but after seeing some designer labels, the boxes were emptied in under five minutes.  No fighting and everyone got something.

We drove to see the mausoleum of Li Zicheng, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Li_Zicheng), before having lunch at a mountainside restaurant.  The final stop was to see terraced rice fields, but the road to the fields was recently covered by a mudslide.  The diverted travels lead us to a village funeral where they were honoring an elderly woman with a day of open mourning.  The pre-recorded sobbing prayers were blasted from giant speakers.  People close to the deceased wore white and covered their heads with white cloth.  There were inflatable ancestral gates and lions propped in front of the mourning tent and a truck loaded with huge fireworks.  Although the recordings broadcasted from the speakers sounded painfully tragic, people were smiling, talking, and looking forward to the great firework show that evening. 



Starting Monday the Montessori teachers of the kindergarten and I worked together for the next eight days cleaning rooms, creating materials, and talking about curriculums.  It was busy, challenging, and not completely finished, but certainly off to a great start before the break.  Happy Chinese New Year to all!  May this year of the horse be full of hard work and great payoff!  Ma shang you qian!

Monday, January 6, 2014

Forever Yang


The New Year of 2014 is quite different from the Chinese New Year.  The Chinese New Year is based around the Lunar calendar and will be celebrated later this month.  The Chinese New Year, (better translated as Spring Festival), is the most honored holiday for Chinese people.  Many children from the kindergarten have been absent since the first of this month in order to extend their New Year celebrations with family members in various parts of China.  I’ve been told that it's the craziest time to attempt travels in China.

The Western New Year’s Eve mildly interesting to Chinese people, and thankfully the first of January is considered a public holiday.  Many people told me that going out on New Year’s Eve was a mess and not to bother celebrating.  After work I headed to a friend’s place on foot.  The streets and walkways appeared no more busy than usual.  The metro stations were not crowded and no one looked festive or aggressive in any way, shape, or form.

After dinner with a friend we drove to a popular expat hangout, Brussels cafe.  The place was loaded with a mix of Chinese and foreigners, the music was great, and the party favors were a highlight.  Later on I discovered that my mask would leave smurf blue marks on my face, but thankfully I didn't have to remove my mask for the night. 

A Chinese woman told me that this year all fireworks on New Year’s Eve would be illegal due to the increase in air pollution.  Despite the warnings, someone set off fireworks on the other side of the lake and we had a grand display. 

Since January first life has returned to normal busy.  I’m preparing for an 8 day teacher workweek where the teachers will be organizing their rooms, creating more cultural materials, and practicing for a practical exam.  This is the last week of students and we will all re-convene on February 17th.  The work week starts next week and goes across the weekend.  After this I can take a few weeks break and finally catch up with life on the other side of the globe.

This past weekend my neighbor and I set off to find Chairman Mao’s Wuhan residency on the East Lake.  The day was beautiful and the walk offered sights of birds, fragrant blooming winter trees, cycads, and soft pines.  The winding roads finally led us to our destination, but the residency is closed for the season.  We took a few pictures before heading to a nearby gala hosted by my traveling group.

During the gala the leader of the group, (Yang), showed photos from the trips to small villages interspersed with performances by both Chinese and foreign members of the group.  I sang “Wo Zhi Zai Hu Ni” by the late great Theresa Teng as the only foreigner in a Chinese singing group.  At the end of the event I sang a slightly different version of a Bob Dylan classic to honor our group leader: 

May your heart always be joyful, may your song always be sung, and may you stay……

Forever Yang